How Naturals In And Outside The U.S. Maintain What’s On And In Their Crown During A Pandemic
Photo by Leighann Blackwood on Unsplash.
By Nneka Gigi
Nigerian braid artist, body painter, and educator, Nneka Gigi, explores how Black women in the United States and in Africa and in the African Diaspora are maintaining their natural hair during COVID-19.
What were your first thoughts when you realized the shut down of non-essential businesses meant no hair appointments in the immediate future? If you were like some of the resourceful naturals who took the survey that inspired this article, you weren’t phased because you’ve maintained your own hair for years and improvised with existing products or used the time to simply build a new and improved relationship with your crown. If you’re like myself and many other naturals, your natural hair care and styling routine took a brief hit and caused some emotional stress.
To be honest, when I first thought about writing a narrative piece on Black hair care and styling during the COVID-19 pandemic, I had my reservations. Why? Schools are closed; businesses are shut down with no re-open date in sight; and people are dying and losing their jobs and struggling to maintain the basics. So how could I focus on something seemingly less important like natural hair care and styling? I’ll tell you why I’m not only talking about it but encouraging my fellow natural hair community to do the same.
“Black women’s hair is inextricably tied to our mental health and serves as a key aspect we must explore as a mental health resource and not something purely aesthetic.”
As the COVID-19 pandemic claims lives and levels out industries, I began to wonder about how all of this would start to affect people’s mental health and specifically, the mental health of Black women and girls through the lens of our hair care and styling rituals. Although essential to us, with natural hair salons shutting down and with social distancing orders, this is keeping some of us from our auntie’s, cousin’s or friend’s kitchens to not only get done up but to discuss whatever may be going on in our lives. Our sacred spaces are now on lockdown.
Black women's hair is inextricably tied to our mental health and serves as a key aspect we must explore as a mental health resource and not something purely aesthetic. Social distancing may have prohibited naturals from gathering in salons, kitchens, and at events but it hasn’t broken the connection naturals have with their crown, what’s in it, and with each other. The peer-to-peer mentoring available through online platforms like Facebook, Instagram, and Zoom have kept us connected while we share homemade hair care remedies and the best videos on how to DIY (do it yourself) box braids with the hair that’s been lying around from previous styles.
Surveying Black Naturals in the U.S. and in the African Diaspora
After surveying over 30 natural Queens and some of their children via survey, I realized how strong the natural hair community can be amidst a pandemic. Participants ages ranged from 7 to 49 and domestic locations spanned from California, New York, Georgia, Texas, Missouri and more to international locations like Doha, Qatar in Western Asia, Germany, and Johannesburg, South Africa. The survey responses and the geographical locations of the respondents reminded me that in times of hair care and styling crisis, Black women and girls with natural hair have a global community to not only relate to but to counsel one another.
News circulating about the COVID pandemic has been anxiety inducing. In an effort to set forth a positive narrative amidst misinformation, I wanted to offer a conversation of frustration, acceptance, and resilience when it concerns natural hair, mental health, and Black women and girls. I was pleasantly surprised to find that while more than half (56 percent) of the naturals surveyed indicated that the pandemic did not affect their natural hair care routine or mental health, 71 percent expressed the following relatable sentiments when asked how the pandemic has affected their natural hair care routine:
“I am taking less care of my hair.”
“It hasn't yet [b]ut I know it will when it comes time for my hair to be braided again.”
“I am not able to go to the salon as I do not know how to care for my hair.”
“Fortunately, I like to be self reliant when it comes to my hair so I haven’t been affected.”
“I've been lazy and haven’t untwisted my hair in days at a time. I barely moisturize it and I actually cut it the other day.”
“I have started making my own blends of essential oils and things to care for my hair. I have semi-freeform dreadlocks, so the way I care for them is very gentle and easy. I am washing it more and covering it more because I work at a grocery store and want to keep exposure to a minimum but still keep healthy.”
“I had to reuse the braiding hair already in my head. Lol. But it came out great & I’m fortunate enough to have a beauty supply store or 2 open in my city.”
“Actually, being stuck at home has given me more time to devote to taking care of my 4C hair. Now I have time for those 4-hour wash days or working on a time consuming protective style without having to rush myself or squeeze it into my schedule.”
Although there’s isn’t nothing funny about a Black woman or girl not being able to care for their hair, I hope these responses offer humor, comfort, and mutual understanding amongst naturals all over the world during and after this pandemic. Woo-sah, Queens! This too shall pass.
The Future of Natural Hair Care Post COVID-19
I am very hopeful for the future of natural hair care and styling practices as something that not only binds us to our beautifully rich African roots but to economic and mental health opportunities as well. Black hair has survived slavery, hair genocide through harmful techniques like perms; Tignon laws; and more. This pandemic is yet another page in history that Black hair will survive. I hope we emerge not only with confidence to do our hair and love its culture specific difficulties but start to approach our mental health and economic base in an industry we aesthetically operate but do not financially own.
“This pandemic is yet another page in history that Black hair will survive.”
I want to end this conversation with hope and confidence. Naturals looking to advance their confidence in natural hair care and styling rituals through a mental health lens might want to take a look at Dr. Afiya Mbilishaka’s groundbreaking work on PsychoHairapy and a few of the following suggestions from our naturals who helped make this survey and article possible:
“Since the quarantine, I've been using chebe powder and olaplex number 3. Leave the chebe powder hair mask in for 3-4 days, rinse and repeat and use the olaplex once a day. Keep your hair in 3-6 low maintenance braids and keep you bonnet on!”
“Make an effort to learn your texture and what long term style works best for you. Dreadlocks is the best thing I could’ve ever done for my hair! I’m to understand that the biggest fear when getting locs is the lack of versatility. I’m still able to wear wigs and hairpieces and I could even do single braids if I wanted to. My advice is [to] explore your hair’s versatility [and] you’ll be surprised what you find out about yourself.”
“I feel like there are still a lot of people who don't understand how IMPORTANT water is for natural hair. I understand not wanting to mess up a style or a re-twist, but if you can add a little more moisture to your day or week (even if it's just a little mist from a spray bottle with water and some essential oils) and top it with the oil of your choice, your hair will thank you!”
“[Use] minimal products that have no chemicals. I only use water, shea butter, chewe powder, and a variety of essential/carrier oils (i.e. coconut and orange) and my hair has flourish[ed]. Also, leave it alone sometimes.”
‘I'm a bit of a lazy natural. I wash, condition, ‘felicia’ braid/twist, and call it a day. However, I would say this is a great time if you're not working to do the MHM [Maximum Hydration Method] method or to deep condition more.”
“I put a puff pony over my dreads for a quick up-do.”
Conclusion
Thank you to all the naturals who took time to complete the survey or send in photos to make this piece possible. Always remember that our Afros, fades, twists, locks, and braids are ancestral antennas keeping our channel clear to receive comfort and direction from our ancestors. Together, if we nurture our crowns, many messages of how to ascend together will become much clearer. Stay safe, tribe.
Nneka Gigi is a braid artist, body painter, educator, and doctoral student based in Los Angeles, California. You can follow Nneka on Instagram at @nnekagigi.